Aretha Franklin, the “Queen of Soul,” is a name synonymous with power, resilience, and musical brilliance. Revered for her unmatched vocal prowess and groundbreaking contributions to the music world, Franklin’s legacy stretches far beyond her voice. As an artist who broke barriers in the 1960s and 1970s, Franklin became a trailblazer in not only the music industry but also the realm of fashion. Her iconic style choices and sartorial statements, both on and off the stage, solidified her as a symbol of Black excellence and cultural influence. Aretha’s fashion was more than just clothing; it was an extension of her larger-than-life persona and her fight for identity and empowerment in a racially segregated society.
In the years since her death in 2018, Aretha’s influence remains an indelible part of our collective consciousness. Her powerful voice and timeless hits, from “Respect” to “I Say a Little Prayer,” will continue to echo across generations. But the indomitable spirit she channeled through her music was equally matched by the bold, confident, and sometimes even rebellious way she dressed. This article explores Aretha Franklin’s lasting impact on fashion, highlighting the key elements of her personal style, the designers she championed, and the powerful message she conveyed through her sartorial choices.
1. Aretha Franklin’s Personal Style: Iconic and Influential
When you think of Aretha Franklin, one of the first images that comes to mind is her onstage presence. Whether performing at the Apollo Theater, the White House, or at the Grammy Awards, Franklin never failed to deliver a visual feast of glamour and elegance. Yet, behind the sparkling gowns and the perfectly coiffed hair was a deeply personal style that helped cement Aretha Franklin not just as a musical icon but also as a cultural trendsetter.
From the very beginning of her career, Franklin was conscious of the image she projected. Growing up in Detroit, she was deeply influenced by the church and gospel music, which played an important role in shaping her self-awareness and the confidence she would later project on stage. But her roots in gospel music were not only audible in her music—they were also visible in her fashion choices. Gospel singers, often women, were known for their meticulously put-together looks, which conveyed both reverence and authority. Aretha followed this template but elevated it to new heights with her own distinctive flair.
A Celebration of Elegance and Power
Franklin’s personal style was, above all, a reflection of her confidence and resilience. Whether she was wearing a flowing, floor-length gown or a more tailored outfit, Aretha never allowed herself to fade into the background. She dressed to command attention, but not in a way that felt forced or overtly flashy. Her clothing was a projection of her inner strength—graceful but commanding, chic yet full of substance.
This was particularly evident in the late 1960s and early 1970s, when Franklin’s career was at its zenith. Her style evolved from the prim and proper looks of the early years to more daring, vibrant, and eye-catching outfits. Aretha embraced color—especially bold shades like royal blue, crimson, and gold—and made fashion a part of her musical identity. The vibrancy of her wardrobe was a reflection of her unapologetic attitude and her determination to be seen and heard in a world that often sought to silence women, especially Black women.
Signature Looks: Fur Coats, Sequins, and Hats
One of Franklin’s most iconic style signatures was her penchant for large, elaborate hats. Whether she was attending a church service or gracing the stage, Aretha’s hats became a symbol of her fashion prowess and individuality. The hats were often oversized, with wide brims and intricate embellishments, such as feathers, sequins, and flowers. These hats became so synonymous with Franklin’s personal style that they practically became part of her musical persona. The statement pieces communicated her distinct sense of self and helped her stand out in an industry where women were often relegated to the background.
Similarly, Aretha was frequently photographed wearing fur coats, adding an element of luxury to her wardrobe that was undeniably glamorous. But Aretha’s furs were not just for show; they were symbolic of her success and status as a Black woman at the top of her field. Fur coats, particularly those of the finest quality, were often associated with wealth and power, and Aretha was unapologetic about owning her place within that narrative.
When Aretha wasn’t rocking furs or dramatic hats, she was often seen in dazzling, sequined gowns. These sparkling numbers were particularly popular during her live performances, where she would often belt out powerful renditions of her hits. Her gowns—often floor-length with intricate beadwork or sparkling embellishments—reflected the same intensity and grandeur as her musical performances. These gowns became a hallmark of her identity, marking her not only as a musical artist but as a style icon.
2. Aretha Franklin’s Influence on African American Fashion
Aretha Franklin’s influence on African American fashion cannot be overstated. In a society where Black women were often marginalized and pigeonholed into stereotypical fashion categories, Aretha defied those constraints. Her style was a direct challenge to the status quo, and her fashion choices allowed her to assert her identity both as an artist and as a Black woman. Franklin’s ability to blend her cultural heritage with high fashion helped pave the way for other African American women to embrace their individuality in the fashion world.
During the Civil Rights Movement and the Black Power era, African American women began to reject Eurocentric beauty standards and embrace their natural hair and unique sense of style. Aretha was at the forefront of this revolution. Her hair, often worn in a voluminous, natural style, became a symbol of Black pride and self-love. In the face of an industry that often pressured Black artists to conform to white standards of beauty, Aretha stood strong and defined her own narrative—through both her voice and her appearance.
Her ability to blend elegance with boldness in her fashion choices also helped redefine the way Black women were perceived in mainstream media. At a time when Black artists, especially women, were often restricted to certain types of roles or performances, Aretha Franklin proved that a Black woman could be both glamorous and politically potent, both stylish and socially conscious. Through her fashion choices, she sent a powerful message that Black women should be proud of who they are, in all their complexity.
3. Collaborating with Designers and Shaping Fashion Trends
As Aretha’s fame grew, she developed close relationships with some of the most influential fashion designers of her time. These designers helped create the outfits that became synonymous with Franklin’s stage presence, from couture gowns to bespoke suits. Aretha’s collaborations with designers such as Valentino, Givenchy, and Halston helped elevate her status as a fashion icon.
One of the most notable designers who worked with Aretha was the legendary couture designer, James Galanos. Known for his sophisticated, classic designs, Galanos was responsible for creating several of Franklin’s most memorable looks, including a series of stunning evening gowns. The elegance of his designs matched Franklin’s own majestic presence, and their collaborations helped cement her reputation as a true fashion icon.
Aretha also had a strong connection to African American designers. In particular, she frequently worked with New York-based designer, Adolfo, whose elegant and feminine designs were a perfect complement to Franklin’s personal style. Franklin’s collaboration with Adolfo brought an element of high fashion to the Black community, showcasing the brilliance and talent of Black designers in a mainstream context.
But it wasn’t just the dresses and gowns that shaped Aretha’s fashion legacy—it was the way she wore them. She wore each piece with confidence and grace, making even the most elaborate outfits look effortless. Aretha’s ability to seamlessly merge high fashion with her own distinct sense of self is part of what made her so influential in the world of fashion.
4. The Enduring Legacy of Aretha Franklin’s Fashion
Aretha Franklin’s impact on fashion is lasting. Her unique blend of elegance, confidence, and rebellion set the stage for future generations of artists, particularly Black women, to embrace their individuality and express themselves through clothing. Her style was a direct reflection of the strength, beauty, and determination she displayed in her music and personal life.
Aretha Franklin’s influence continues to be felt in the fashion world today. Her fashion choices paved the way for contemporary Black artists like Beyoncé, Rihanna, and Solange to push boundaries and redefine what it means to be a stylish, powerful woman. Aretha’s fashion was not about following trends; it was about creating them—through her bold choices and unapologetic confidence.
For women of all backgrounds, Franklin’s style remains a source of inspiration. Her ability to embrace glamour while staying true to her roots, and her determination to never be confined to societal expectations, will continue to inspire new generations to dress with power and purpose.
As the Queen of Soul, Aretha Franklin was not just a musical genius—she was also a style icon who used fashion as a tool of self-expression and empowerment. Her wardrobe was not just about clothes; it was a statement. Aretha dressed not just for herself but for every woman who sought to break free of societal limitations and embrace their own unique beauty and power.
In the end, Aretha Franklin’s fashion legacy is as timeless as her music. Her sartorial choices will continue to resonate for years to come, as a testament to her strength, artistry, and her unyielding commitment to excellence. Aretha Franklin wasn’t just a voice for a generation—she was a visual symbol of the unapologetic power of being oneself, inside and out.